Friday 20 January 2012

The Tao Climber

 
I was relaxing my aching bones in a hot bath last night and I always like to read whilst doing this. I picked up a book of Tia's (my gf, she will probably figure in this blog  every so often) called 'Your First Triathlon' by Joe Friel. Not that I'm about to join the Tracey Clan of Triathletes (Tia and 2 of her brothers have done or are doing triathlons), but I thought it may have something to say about swimming technique and have drill suggestions in there. I can swim. My breast stroke is really good (that's what she said), but my front crawl is, at best, abysmal. Previous gf's have tried and failed to get me anywhere with it, though Tia has made some progress, it's still crap. More of a case of dragging a brick through the water than a fish. A fully laden Transit van instead of a Lamborghini. Enough of the cack swimming. What I found interesting was a bit in the back in the epilogue.

It starts with Mr Friel talking about how his daughter loves swimming, riding her bike and running around because it's not just practice for her, it's part of who she is. It's not a routine, she's not focused on beating a time, it's just fun and part of her. Maybe that's what you were like if you can remember it.
Then you get goals you have to achieve, have a plan to achieve them, get sucked into the plan and it becomes an obsession. You/We allow obsession to take the fun out of it.
He gives the analogy of the Tao archer spending time firing arrows at the target, not to see how many bullseyes he can get, but to get a better understanding of how the arrow flies. How it feels, how small differences can change it.

It made me think about climbing and what I see in the wall on a regular basis. People not climbing for the fun of it but just to tick things off, like a kind of activity train spotter. The ones who complain about the grades if its given a low one (say V1) and they fall off, but will say nothing if they flash a "soft touch" V7.
These are the kind of people who just bludgeon up the wall, beating the route/problem into submission and then getting to the top (maybe even flashing it) and the next time they come in, doing the same again. The same style(?), the same way, learning nothing. Isn't that what the indoor wall is about, learning in a low stress environment when compared to outside?? I've done it in the past. Blasting up the wall, doing the problem, but then when you've done it, why not try a different approach, a different technique. Learn something about the movement, about body position, about how and when to use the power.

What prompted me to write this was finding that piece in a book, watching people on the Panels set yesterday and today, and something that happened before Christmas when I'd set a problem using a fist jam, which the really tall bypassed by jumping off a hold that was facing an obscure direction. Though they wouldn't use the crack later for feet either. What did they learn about climbing. Nothing. If they came across a jamming crack outside, then I'd like to be there to see that :).
On the plus side, I believe I have found a Tao Climber - "Strong" Martin. He does the hard blocs in Castle but loves just doing moves. Just weird things on the Wave (training board), not just strong. He doesn't mind about not getting to the top. One of his quotes is "the Wave decides".

So, Martin, the Tao Climber. I salute you.

And the rest of you .... stop the train spotting!!!!


5 comments:

  1. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  2. Great post, Rich. I definitely agree with your comment about Martin too. He's one of the most inspirational people to watch at The Castle. Despite being incredibly strong, he has tenacity and patience to work problems and think his way round things which is a part of bouldering that I really enjoy*.

    Which hand jam problem where you referring to? The one(s) in the catacomb?

    I'm enjoying your posts (and not just because I got a name check!). Keep them up.

    *Also, when he dropped the "The wave decides" comment the other day, I couldn't help but picture him as one of those little three eyed aliens from Toy Story.

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  3. it was one on the mezz that i set just after the Sibl to fill in

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  4. Great post, indeed.

    IMHO, "I've done it in the past" is the important part.
    All/most/many do the same *mistake*, I think.

    I have been engaged with climbing for long time now, with very long break in middle, but subconsciously I always aimed higher targets than ticking grades. In spite of that, how many times I asked you Rich or other folks lurking by the Wave "What's the grade of that purple one?"...? Countless.

    Such questions make sense during initial period, I think, as useful checkpoints of progress. Though, it works only in low range of grades, V0-V5, beyond that it is pointless as the mathematics of grades become way more surreal than the mathematics of plain numbers. The number of variables increases extremely fast, so it literally makes no sense to try to understand it.

    Last night, I sent the new V4-V6 yellow dyno on panels by the Wave in 3rd attempt. A couple of my friends who feel fairly comfy beyond V7-V8 could not make it to the top. For most grade tickers conclusions would be clear, but bloody wrong! I used to derive such false conclusions myself, many times but it leads nowhere, I've learn.
    On the other hand, every runner checks the time, but climbing *is* governed by slightly different mathematics, very individual mathematics.

    I frequently watch some young folks hitting V7+ and they manage to stick their hands to holds, and sometimes get close to top, but there is no body control whatsoever, feet flying in all possible directions so if there were pencils attached to them, it would be the fastest Surrealistic automatic drawing ever made. Young, light, supported by naturally positive strength to weight ratio...it is easy gain confidence of climbing celebrity, but there comes dangerous (self-)disrespect too.

    I guess if I didn't stop myself, if I didn't watch others, then if I didn't dare to listen and talk some of the great folks at the Castle, I'd be either seriously injured or seriously frustrated. The points in which I met the residents like Dan, Tim, "Strong" Martin, Johnny Dawes, you, and a few others people were always some kind of turning points for me. I can't even remember how many times a problem drove me to tears, suddenly Dan approached and solved it in words, literally. I don't really believe in magic, sometimes genius minds of climbing can leave with impression a magic exists. Those turning points are the reason I keep coming to the Castle.

    I prefer watching "Strong" Martin's smile after coming down from a problem on the Wave, than watching vids with Adam Ondra's screams of frustration (at least, I see it that way).

    ...quite a confession, what a hell.

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  5. Cheers for reading the blog and taking the time to write a very detailed and emotive reply. I'm also a runner and do do the time checking thing, but don't get too hung up on it now a days. To hit under 40 mins for 10k again would be nice but I just like running and its part of who I am :)

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