"That's not f---ing V0. That's a sh-t problem. There's no f---ing way that's a V0, it's f---ing sh-t. That's what it is f---ing sh-t".
The words I heard off a climber, who was talking to here climbing partner, as I walked passed my newly set traverse wall at the Castle, a couple of weeks ago. The climber's partner saw things a little differently. She thought it a tad on the stiff side of the grade, but had flashed it and thought it was a good problem. Both climbers were female with the complainant being about 5'6" and her friend, 5'1" if that. I've seen them around and, on a good day, they can work V3. To be fair, I think I underestimated a (fair) few of the grades on that traverse wall and it was slightly harsh. Though did it warrant a "f---ing sh-t" just because it wasn't flashed??? I got shut down by Marie Rose at Bas Cuvier, but didn't cry about it. It's V3 for God's sake.
That's the problem with grades and indoor grades in particular.
Outdoors the problem or route is going to be up for years and stay more or less the same, save a rock fall, pebble breaks and polishing. People can come along and try it and offer grade suggestions to get a consensus. It may go up a grade, down a grade or stay the same. Someone could unlock a sequence that makes it easier.
Indoors its uo for 5-6 weeks. And in the case of the said traverse wall, I stripped, washed, set and tested 8 traverses in about 4 hours. I was also feeling a little weak so erred on the side of stuff being a bit easier.
If we are setting an area like the Mezz at the Castle, its 4 people to strip, wash, set, test and tweak 40+ problems from VB to V8+ and maybe some above that. That is a hell of a lot to get right. And take into account that you tire as the day wears on, there is going to be some discrepancies.
In a previous blog I mentioned the Panels set with Al and Mike. There are two V3s on there that feel V4 now and a Pink problem, given V6, with a cheeky drop knee, it feels maybe V5.
Mike coined the "off the grade-ar" phrase the other day, and sometimes you might not agree with the grade, it may be too high or too low ... having said that I don't hear many people complaining about the soft touches.
Maybe you should become more of a Tao Climber. Or maybe its just 'not your style'. But thats another story
Oh its all good, just don't put easy problems that can potentially injure cold fingers and the other arguments and grumbles will roll on into eternity! I do not like everything that is put up in the castle but as long as there is variety then I cannot complain (well, maybe grumble a bit)!
ReplyDeletetake it easy beast
I don't really care about whether a grade is hard or soft. It's the consistency that has always been especially bad at the castle e.g. A hard set in the pen, a soft set upstairs etc.
ReplyDeleteA feedback loop would be good (like you did in the pen a while back) - lets see what the general consensus of a climb is and adjust the grade appropriately. I appreciate that setting is a knackering job and hard to get right at the end of a long day, but lets not just shut the loop and say "put up or shut-up".
Other sectors have to respond to feedback and adjust, why not setting?
Therefore you do care whether it is hard or soft.
ReplyDeleteAnd any way, I was just using the castle as an example, i could have easily used mile end or the reach or other walls I've set at.
I have zero, no, nada, control over what happens at the castle, so i don't understand why you are asking me this question. i won't be forwarding any of your comments on. if you have an issue with the routes/problems grades then speak to the management.
I was just pointing out that people get hung up on grades.
Nup, I really don't
DeleteMe too, the Castle is an obvious example to use. The lack of a feedback loop is apparent in every centre I've ever been too.
The mentioning about consistency was my (poor) attempt to explain why someone might get upset about a problem (e.g. "I flashed that v3 and can't touch this v0 now I'm going to rage around swearing"). People want to see progression with every sport, its easier to measure with less subjective ones.
maybe some people just need to train their weaknesses, and use their energy more constructively than moaning
DeleteThe other thing is its all very well having the board up for people to put their own ideas of grades on there but again that varies with height, strength ... and lets face it, its indoor climbing, and like I siad before, its a problem that is up for 5 weeks. Use it as training and get over it.
Deletethis is not a castle customer comments board
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