Didn't go for a run this morning. Was going to go for a 5k with aerobic intervals, but had a restless night and awoke with a bit of a sore throat, so had an extra 45 mins in bed instead.A big bowl of porridge with dried fruit, and then off to the Castle to set some routes (have to point out that I live about 100m away from the place). Just did 3 routes today. A grey screw-on number that comes in at about 7b, maybe a + but I'm not quibbling over half a grade. A spicy 6b and a 6a jug haul.
After this it was time to strip the routes that Yann and Gaz are setting on Wednesday. Twas an epic due to rounded bolt heads, and cold outside for the washing.
Then, time to train.
Did the V5 of yesterday, in my trainers a la Gaz Parry. Felt easier :/.
Flashed another V5, got a V6 second go (rookied the first attempt, missed a foot hold), working a V7 and making pretty good progress ... but the moments of the day were on the Beastmaker.
That is the wooden fingerboard pictured above. It is quite hard to hold, especially the slopers. I've been doing encores on the 35 degree slopers, so 6 secs on 4 off for 6 reps and 4 sets, but at different arm lock offs. Then doing off-set lock on the 35 with one hand and 45 with the other. You have to engage the core to keep it steady. I got the weight vest out for a couple of sets, which ramped it up a bit.
But the thing that I was really pleased with today, was a one-armed pull up on the 20 degree slopers with each arm, and a pull up on the 45 degree slopers. It may not mean much to some people but my open handed contact strength is quite rubbish, but it appears the training is beginning to pay off.
I may eventually become a BEAST!!!!
